The past 3 days has intensified my love-hate relationship with Cusco. I love it because its a gateway to the Inca ruins, displays Peruvian culture and is generally a lot of fun. I hate it because I feel like I am a walking target for rip-off tour packages and constant badgering for money.
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The last few days have been spent relaxing and recouperating after our trek to Machhu Picchu. However, it is only within the confines of my dormitory that I can actually relax. Walking down the roads of Cusco can be a real nightmare. Sure, I enjoyed the novelty of the constant interaction with the locals at the beginning - but now I am really, really over it.
When I (or any gringo) walks down the street here it doesnt take long for either a small child to run up to me with a box of postcards or finger puppets and stay with me for 100m or so. They are tutored with what to say, how to say it and even how to start crying on demand. At first I was sensitive to this and actually believed their stories. But now I recognise that although they have a hard life - their soliciting for money is part of a massive strategy aimed at tourists where the money doesnt even go to the child or his family.
Its not just the kids who come after you. Walk a few more metres and half a dozen tour operators will come at you from all sides to sell rip-off tours in $US only and including other hidden costs. Walk a few more metres and then the restauranteurs will throw menus at you all offering free vino tinto (red wine) or piscoe sours. Their badgering never ends even after you tell them that you have already eaten at the restaurant next door. Walk a few more metres again and the movie theatre owners (i.e. who screen DVDs) all compete to have you come and buy a drink at their movie screening. They dont ask quietly either. They remember your name from a week earlier - cover you by the shoulders and direct you into their theatre. These are the same guys who later give out the ´free´ tickets to the clubs and discos. They are unrelenting.
But while I hate their tactics - I admire the Peruvian spirit of entrepreneurship. They have to earn a living and must compete in a cut-throat economy to get their commissions. They work long hours, are constantly on their feet and do what they have to do to get paid in a relatively unregulated market.
I do look forward to getting on the bus tonight to travel to Puno (Lake Titicaca).
Posted by Tanya at May 17, 2005 05:35 PM