Wow - we are now in Buenos Aires, after staying a few more days in Brazil than originally planned. On Wednesday we headed off on a bit of a side trip, bright and early, on the first of 4 buses by 7.30 as it takes 3 buses to just cross the border to the Argentinian bus station, one from our hostel up the road a little way, one towards the centre of town and another across the border. From there we boarded a bus that took us 5 hours south from Puerto Iguacu to San Ignacio Mini which is a small town that reminded me a bit of Collarenebri out in the north-west of NSW...
San Ignacio contains a number of ruins from one of the Jesuit Missions which were set up amongst the native Indians in both Brazil and Argentina around the early 1700s. This mission itself was originally established further north in Argentina but had been moved further south to where the ruins stand today to avoid conflict with the Portuguese around 1720. Later on around 1760 (if my memory is correct) the Jesuit missionaries were expelled by the Spanish and they left peacefully, soon after which many of the native Indians dispersed and those remaining were caught in a conflict with Paraguay some years later and much of the mission was burned.
What remains of the original settlement is still incredible. The entry was 12 pesos (around AUD5) and we had the nicest English-speaking young tour guide just for Tanya and I, who gave us a very detailed guide of the place for about an hour and a half. There is an original cross on display that was found on the altar of the church and dates from the 1690s, some of the original tiling on some floors, many pieces of the pillars which once held up the huge roof of the central square, and most of the walls of the main buildings are still in tact. The overall layout is still very visible and it included large communal houses around the outside perimeter, divided into rooms for each family and each containing one chief and one Jesuit priest (though the Geyranese -the Indians, not sure of spelling - originally lives in large communal huts with no walls), there was also a large square, a church, a central dining room and kitchen, workshops, orphanage and cemetery that was divided into 4 sections - one for each of the women, the men, boys and girls. The main square which is contained by walls is now overgrown with grass and it reminded us a lot of the Sydney uni grounds next to the great hall!
We had been told originally that there is not much there to see and that the whole place would take only a few hours to see and then be out of there. We had planned to stay over night though and were so lucky to be there on the one night that the place was hosting a huge (free) arts concert right in the central square/park area of the ruins that included performers from at least Argentina and Paraguay and was televised live to many other countries aswell. It was so beautiful! There must have been a few thousand people at least - all the chairs were taken and many more people brought their own, with other people sitting on the grass and still others standing. After moving from our chairs we found A-class seats on the grass in front of the stage and before the dignatories sitting in the front rows. Man it was soooo good! There were some opera singers, ballet, an awesome instrumental band that included a very popular composer and pianist (donīt know the names though) and about 5 guys including bass, electric, acoustic guitar, drums, and one amazing young guy who played the flute, oboe, windpipes, recorder and percussion like I have never heard them before! To finish there were 4 men called "quatro opus" who sang tenor and bass and were so good to listen to and watch. One bass also played spanish guitar and another drummed and all sang like the 4 tenors. All this was on a stage with a beautiful backdrop of the ruins lit with golden lights and a perfect clear sky with a full moon and the milky way right above us.
Anyway, the ruins themselves were magic but the concert was extra special - somehow we seem to have the best luck and timing turning up for special events in each place! Awesome.
After the concert finished at 12 we walked the 8 blocks or so home to the pousada, nearly getting attacked by the local dogs who ruled the streets, and even closer in the morning when we had to be up BEFORE 5am (yes mum, itīs true) and caught a bus back to Iguacu at 5.30. After 4 buses again we finally arrived back at the Paudimar hostel on the Brazilian side where Lara and Soheila had come for a weekend away from the creche. It was great to see them again and catch up on the news from Porto Alegre.
After just a few hours there we caught another 5 buses over the border to the Argentinian bus station and a bus to Buenos Aires. OH MY GOSH we had heard about the buses in Argentina but you just wonīt understand until you see it for yourself! We had the BEST seats right up top (double storey) in front of this huge single-pane window with an elevated view that was just magic. The seats recline 3/4 of the way back and we were just enquiring about whether we do in fact get food on this bus when "vino maīam?" we were offered wine and sweet biscuits, then when dinner came, we were busy exclaiming at the array of savoury biscuits, fancy salad-sandwich scrolls, desert, some savoury rice/meal stuff and bread, when he comes back and hands us a second course of hot lasagna!!! And it was vegetarian and so good! Then they serve more drinks, with top ups, and more sweet biscuits before bed (not just like arnotts either). Plus we had blankets and a pillow which made it just perfect for sleeping, even with the air conditioning on. Oh - and a few movies on the tv right above us. Then for breakfast we were served a plate of bread, croissant, cake, and the nicest coffee Iīve had in ages. We also landed another lucky strike with a really nice guy who sat in the seat opposite us - Leo from Columbia (who has convinced us that we want to travel there as he says it is so beautiful, he speaks English very well and is visiting friends in Buenos Aires). Like so many helpful people we have met, he offered to escort us from the station to our hostel and show us the subway and everything so we donīt get lost. Absolutely lovely - and just in case youīre all being skeptical (shame on you!) he has a girlfriend and was just being nice! He was quite amazed (and thought we are a little crazy - warriors he called us - maybe after he saw my bag!) for travelling to a country where we canīt speak the language.
It is a little frustrating now that we can converse so easily in Portuguese, switching to another country with a different language. We start Spanish school on Monday though, 4 hours a day for two weeks and 10 tango classes too. Íīm actually really excited to be going to school again in a way! Should be lots of fun.
Anyway, we have only seen a little of Buenos Aires so far but of what I have seen, between the subway and one block to our hostel, the architecture is just beautiful! I know people had said the architecture is amazing but I somehow thought the nice buildings would be concentrated in a certain area, but not so. So much to see and so much time to see it thankfully. How exciting!!!
Posted by Haley at March 26, 2005 04:42 PM